I simply adore white beans, in fact I almost have an fascination with them. I am not quite sure how this manifested itself in me, maybe because from childhood we get introduced and grow to love them as a 'tomatoey' sweet pulse of joy then, in my case at least, they return some years later in a 'grown up' fashion. Like reacquainting oneself with an old friend.
They are flexible as an ingredient, so pleasing to have in the store cupboard dried waiting for a soaking, or once this is done and a batch is cooked, swimming happily in their own liquor in the fridge. A knowing and nourishing accompaniment to many foods,fish or foul,meat,game,they have great gastronomic friends. In winter they can help create stews, in summer add substance and texture to salads. White beans have integrity.
I can recount with ease great meals I have had where white beans have played a big part in the magic; a cassoulet at The Anchor and Hope a few years back on a bleak winters day, Bentleys in an intense fishy creamy broth with Smoked haddock, St John with Rabbit and aioli, at a Karl Goward(ex St John now @DrapersArms)outpost in Suffolk braised with octopus and served with pork belly.
The basic dried white bean preparation I use is to soak them for three hours or so(over night soaking is not required unless they are very old), then simmer in unsalted water for twenty minutes or so, rinse then cover with fresh water, throw a couple of heads of garlic in with two bay leafs. Put lid on the pan and into a slow to medium oven for about one and a half hours, until the beans are still intact but tender. They can then be seasoned put into a container,cooled and refridgerated for a good week or two.
They have so much flavour already at this stage, just some good olive oil is a perfect marriage. I frequently eat them with good quality tinned tuna, maybe capers, thinly sliced shallot, lemon juice and parsley added. Delicious.
One of my favorite's dishes to prepare from this stage is white bean, tomato and chorizo stew; sweat down(slowly) some shallots, onions, fennel and garlic. Throw in some booze if any is kicking around, cook it out, put your beans in with two squished tinned tomatoes(a decent pouring of passata works well if in stock), some tomato puree and cover with chicken stock. Throw in a handful of small whole cooking chorizo's, and cook for around 30 minutes slowly thickening. Remove the chorizo's and slice then return them to the pan, check seasoning and add some chopped parsley to finish. It's great on its own or to serve with pork, chicken or fish. Squid, chilli and preserved lemon can be added to this too(at the beginning)to make a more piquant, 'racey' version.
To sign off I leave you with a stunningly simple white bean and meat dish that always impresses those that eat it. It only requires bread, sharply dressed green salad and much red wine for a great winters evening with friends;
Jane Grigson White Bean and Meat stew
A good couple of handfuls of either lamb(ideal), beef or pork, cut into chunks
A packet of dried white haricot beans(soaked, boiled for 15 minutes drained and rinsed)
A good two or three tablespoons of gound Allspice
Two cloves of garlic chopped
A large onion chopped
Water
Splash of oil
Salt and pepper
Tinned tomatoes and Tomato puree
Chop the onion and throw into a heavy bottomed casserole dish, sweat slowly for ten to fifteen minutes adding the garlic after about ten minutes. Add the meat chunks and brown. Deglaze with touch of wine if you have it to hand if not water will suffice, then add the beans. Squish the tomatoes in and add a good squirt of puree. Cover well with cold water mix and season with the allspice and pepper. Pop into a slow-medium oven for about one and a half hours. About fifteen minutes before time check for taste and season with salt and add some more Allspice and pepper if required. The beans thicken the liquor, the taste from such simple and inexpensive ingredients is superb.
You can finish with chopped parsley if you like.
