Last Saturday I had lunch at the Harwood Arms, not a debut for me but the first time since its award of a Michelin Star. It has a great pedigree being related to The Square and The Ledbury. It is in an interesting location, minutes from the 'hussle and bolshy bussel' of North End road but at the end of a very fine street of Victorian Villas. The pub and what it now offers suits this street very much. I would in fact like to live in this street.
The room is attractive and bright, elegantly and softly decorated with black and white photography and pretty flower arrangements.
The menu is 'English country side meets fine dining' , intriguing. Lots of game, Venison 't' bones , Pheasant thighs. There is a fantastic Bar snack menu which is very hard to ignore, particularly their famous Scotch eggs. The wine list is not extensive in range but very detailed in explanation, I like that and it truly helps when ordering.
To start proceedings we ordered scotch eggs, freshly fried and served with a pleasing snowcap of sea salt. Cut into, the egg was delightfully fresh and fluid, surrounded by an adequate casing of seasoned minced venison. A great way to kick off the Harwood food experience particularly with the pint of perfectly kept Wandle ale I was drinking at the time.
Next Snails; beautifully presented in an egg cup format, stuffed with a touch of oxtail, parsley crumbs and to close it off a slice of bone marrow. I am not sure what these additions add in the overall experience of eating snails, maybe I am just too keen on eating them simply with 'snail butter' , but the challenge to oneself to extract all that lies deep in the shell with the little fork is fun and rewarding, if you succeed.
My main course , Cullen Skink. A deep grooved handsome looking bowl arrived on their trademark olive tree wood boards, nestling next to it a charred rosemary bread bun for dipping. Brilliantly fresh, bulbous, amber mussels gleefully supported the chunks of succulent smoked fish and potato, with vibrant green Kale as a garnish, all carefully plated in a intense broth, superb.
Other main courses eaten on our table were ox cheek, mashed potato ('Michelin mash', totally creamy, rich and buttery) and pickled walnut, the latter giving a lovely sweet sharp edge to the rich and unctuous melting cheek. Also Venison T bone, it looked a mighty specimen, cooked perfectly pink.
A New Zealand Peregrine Pinot Noir proved to be a splendid wine for the lunch, it required some cheese to see it off so I gratefully obliged and ordered the cheese plate, three or four cheeses nicely at one with the room temperature and individually good arrived.
It was felt by common consensus that we couldn't leave without a bowl of miniature marmalade doughnuts and cream, a delicious and clever sharing sweet to sign off.
As a mean over my three visits fifty or sixty pounds a head sees you right going through the card with good wine. Correct money for the quality of food and service(not the sharpest but it is a pub and charming attitudes more than compensated for delays) returned.
The Harwood Arms is really very good indeed. Uniquely so, in London that is, it offers a 'fine dining experience' in the surrounds of a Public House. The 'Gastro pub' bar is raised but to the Anchor and Hope- you are just fine.
Four out of five stars
The Harwood Arms
27 Walham Grove
SW6 1UR
0207 386 1847
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