tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-56302641893216001742024-03-04T21:50:23.076-08:00Smokey & LentilsFood tales from Arbroath to Auvergne and beyondChris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-25431336003943692092012-04-14T02:35:00.003-07:002012-04-14T11:30:24.129-07:00Post number twenty, 'La Grenouillere' Montreuil, Pas de Calais<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I had not taken the ferry from Dover to Calais for years, last weekend I decided to put that right and I must say I found the whole experience rather grim. The boat was rusty, tired & packed, no waves of sweet nostalgia here. 'Langan's brasserie' provided limited sanctuary, watery smoked haddock & rubbery poached eggs. Thankfully I had booked the tunnel for our return.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The three days & two nights in France that followed were however superb, despite the grey, rain filled skies. We had some super meals; La Matelote in Boulogne was excellent; old school, classic Michelin star, rich French food in immaculate & appropriately garish surroundings. Lunch in Le Touquet on Sunday at Perard was a joy, fantastic fruits de mer & their famous Soup de poisson. I hadn't been to Le Touquet before, what a charming little place. The real star of the weekend though was an old Auberge in Montreuil just a few miles east of Le Touquet, La Grenouillere.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Situated in a pleasingly rural location one could be miles into the vast countryside of France here...the fact is you are a mere hour from Calais. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The restaurant is owned by a father and son combination, Roland and Alexandre Gauthier, the latter seemingly in charge of the general direction of the food and indeed the Auberge as a whole. Alexandre was present on arrival, throughout dinner running the pass and there to say goodbye on our departure.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">It is within the last year I believe that the incredibly theatrical new kitchen and dining room have been added to the old parts of the building. If you imagine '<i style="background-color: initial; line-height: 1.2em; text-align: -webkit-auto;">The Cook, the Thief, His Wife & Her Lover' </i>you won't be far away from the ambiance of this amazing space. </span><br />
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<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The old parts of La Grenouillere (The froggery) are also stunning... dark, stylish & moody. The paintings on the walls in what was the old restaurant (now the lounge) are illustrations of Fontaine's fable of the Frog who ate until he exploded, it sets a wonderful scene<span style="color: #0033ff;">.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: -webkit-center;"><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><span style="color: #0033ff;"><br />
</span></span></div><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">We stayed in one of their 'huts' in the gardens, at one with the countryside all earthy and wooden, La Grenouillere mixes old with new brilliantly well.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Dinner provided a gastronomic journey; sight, sense & taste were at times delightfully aroused. We opted for the eleven course tasting menu, eight out of those courses were show stoppers... highlights of the appetizers were a brilliant ball of poached squid with peas, a pressed form of avocado & seabass. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The three main dishes were all sensational; first a plate piled with smouldering pine & juniper arrived, encouraged to lift a few twigs off a fat lobster tail was exposed, the spikey greenery a genius faux shell; we were told to eat the buttery, bulbous, rich wonder of the sea with our hands...... this was a very fine moment. Next another innovative plate centred around chicken 'oysters' with hop shoots & a light hoppy jus, delicious. Finally beef, we were told from a female beast, just older than veal but not quite a cow, I can't remember the French name. Served with just a few pieces of cut spinach with a garlic puree, it was brilliant.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Strawberries served in a strawberry pasta shell, the lightest chocolate mousse coated with pistachio crumbs the deserts continued to impress. The final desert was delivered with a twist, our impressive & knowledgable waitress nonchalantly dropping a transparent egg on the plates in front of us. It smashed, we were startled, she was not, clever delivery breaking the sugary shell so we could devour the cleansing sweet, herby ice cream inside, brilliant.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">To finish a pile of giant parsley was presented to us, hiding were long, thin, green macaroons, a fitting finale.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Wine was superb, a fine Meursault then a great sweet wine of the house made with just local honey, water and yeast, decanted from a giant bottle with a test tube by our splendid wine waiter.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The meal was memorable, it was light, fresh & theatrical, all of which I cannot say I have really connected with French food over my years of culinary indulgence. The dishes were all uncomplicated which I really liked, two, maximum three ingredients. </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">There was elements of Londons fine 'Young turks' about the experience. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">All this just a tad over three hours drive from London town.....I will be back.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">La Madelaine sous Montreuil, Montreuil sur mer,</span><br />
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<span style="color: #666666; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; line-height: 21px; text-align: -webkit-auto;"><b>http://www.lagrenouillere.fr/</b></span><br />
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</span></div><div style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"><span style="color: #666666; font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><span style="line-height: 21px;"><b>NB</b> Alexandre Gauthier is a partner in the nearby more casual 'Froggys tavern' Montreuil. We ate lunch there on the way home....it just serves simple rotisseried meat & fish; we both had a great slab of a pork chop with fried potatoes, sharp green salad and a giant pot of mustard. Bloody yum. </span></span></div><br />
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</span></div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-39289136004192735602011-10-28T13:06:00.000-07:002011-10-28T13:06:13.770-07:00Post number nineteen, 'Hedone' .....simply stunning<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I am sure many of you have already heard the story behind Hedone in Chiswick. The new restaurant by chef/patron Mikael Jonsson a self taught, sourcing obsessed foodie who also writes the blog <a href="http://www.gastroville.com/">Gastroville</a> .</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I had the incredible pleasure of dining there last night and without going into too many eulogies, it blew me away.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The simple, no frills approach to each and every dish, the stunning flavours of the amazing produce on every plate, Hedone provided me with a dining experience I have rarely been lucky enough to enjoy.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">It is a stylish room, minimal but tasteful and a touch quirky, I loved the freestyle drawing on the ceiling. There is a four or five course (fifty / sixty pounds respectively) pretty set menu or a tasting menu. We opted for five courses;</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">First a savoury jammy dodger, cheesey, tasty. Next the freshest most beautiful piece of mackerel I have ever eaten, just simply presented on a slate slab with a little green.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Then onions, with shaved pear and a little citrus/butter sauce....this sounds nothing but the gentle flavour of the onion, with the sweetness of the shaved pear then the sauce, it was sublime. This plate was also one of the prettiest I have ever seen.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Next Crab, white meat, served in a crater compartment of a huge glass bowl, with cauliflower, chive and citrus creme fraiche. Again it was so fresh, the flavour of the cauliflower engaging the crab. Stunning.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Then Turbot, served with a carrot sauce and a pretty pink flower(the name of which escapes me)......amazing visual impact with the white fish, yellow sauce and pink flower. The taste, oh my god the taste was a joy to behold. Soft, rounded, fantastic. The quality of the turbot was immense.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Then the meat course, salt marsh lamb, with ratte potatoes and a little parsley puree.......just so simple but again visually so pleasing, the flavours quite incredible. The lamb was perfectly pink, the potato perfectly 'just' cooked. Normally I feel the need for a sauce with lamb, but this just shows when you have ingredients of such high quality simplicity sings. Just a very light reduction aided the dish. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The wine list has some excellent choices by the glass; Chablis premier cru for the fish, Barbaresco for the lamb, both superb.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">A selection of perfect cheese next with complex, rich Alsace white grand cru. Finally a fine apple tart and another glass of the delightful Alsace.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">What a meal.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Hedone is exciting, clever, special and brilliant. The quality of the ingredients beams out from the beautiful dishes that Mikael Jonsson produces. The simplicity is similar to that of 'St John' but this is 'fine dining'. The Sportsman' in Seasalter also came to mind as a comparable establishment food wise.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I have little doubt that Hedone will be the hottest table in town very soon, I for one cannot wait to return.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">tel 0208 747 0377</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">price - One hundred/one hundred thirty pounds a head with good wine</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-59890732679527453762011-08-01T12:31:00.000-07:002011-08-01T12:31:43.108-07:00Post number eighteen, 'The Company shed' West Mersea<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKiFCgy8TLJCz5dXSysXyzsFaeTTyuNdFP_7OIrgqR4R47QfyLtoX3sZiojNN0USwrnHfQD6TAv54U68pAe2RT1SoN3XpP3scGnOg6ty2mtyTLZsXkWKmixQljZ00-pJgeswHKtmH_oC0/s1600/IMG00140-20110731-1332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDKiFCgy8TLJCz5dXSysXyzsFaeTTyuNdFP_7OIrgqR4R47QfyLtoX3sZiojNN0USwrnHfQD6TAv54U68pAe2RT1SoN3XpP3scGnOg6ty2mtyTLZsXkWKmixQljZ00-pJgeswHKtmH_oC0/s320/IMG00140-20110731-1332.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I have just returned from a weekend in Essex. I had a lovely time, it really is true that every county in our great country has it's beauty. Yesterday, having some time to kill I decided to go and explore Mersea Island. I knew nothing of the place particularly apart from the fact I have seen West Mersea native oysters on the menu at some great restaurants.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I suspected we might get lucky with lunch so I delved in to the world wide web and came up with what looked like a cracker of a lunch venue, The Company Shed, a shellfish/wet fish shop with ten tables or so where you can eat in. It is owned by the Haward family who have been producing some of the best oysters the UK has to offer since 1792.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">You cross to the island via a road/causeway that during high spring tides is liable to flood so one has to watch that. I headed straight for West Mersea where The Company shed is located, as we wound our way down the coast road I was amazed how pretty the buildings and the place looked. The Mersea yacht club had a junior regatta running, the lawn in front of the clubhouse a perfect picture of an English coastal summer; adults enjoying jugs of Pimms on the deep green lawn, kids playing around on the shore and in the water in little Lazer dinghy's.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Driving right to the northern end of Coast road I could see in the distance a black slat board shack with a queue outside, this had to be the Company shed. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">It is exactly that, a slightly ramshackle shed by the sea. I went in and enquired how long a table for two would be(there are no bookings), an hour they said. Our name was chalked up on the board and we wondered down the road for a pint in the sunshine to pass the time. NB I tried two superb local ales yesterday, Captain Bob's from Maldon and Island Yo boy from the Mersea Island Brewery.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Returning in an hour the polite and efficient staff informed us they were just clearing our table, this doesn't take long in the Company shed, vinyl table clothes are simply washed down and in we went.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The place was packed, each brightly coloured table equipped with a big roll of kitchen paper, sea salt, pepper, tabasco and malt vinegar. It was an exciting, very social scene that oozed 'bon ami'. Friends/families, couples with their own bottles of wine and bread(you are encouraged to byo here) getting stuck into fantastic seafood.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">You order at the bar, we went for a seafood platter, native lobster, grilled salted garlic prawns and half a dozen Gigas rock oysters. The highlights of the platter were the native crab and lobster, both kept in tanks at the back of the shack so super fresh. There were also prawns, large and small, fantastic green shelled mussels. The Gigas rocks were really very good, the best rock oyster I have eaten actually. Sadly we were out of season and missed the house speciality, West Mersea natives oysters.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Everything was delicious.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I went to the counter to pay our bill and nearly collapsed when all I was required to hand over was £23, the Gigas rock oysters an incredible 75 pence each. What amazing value. At this point I decided to take away some more oysters, mussels and prawns. We sat for the rest of the afternoon on a wall by the sea watching the boats go by grazing on the briney seafood delights, sipping cider. It was bliss.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">If you are a shellfish fan, an Oyster fan in particular then this is a must visit place. There is a very deep rooted Oyster culture in West Mersea and from this has sprung The Company Shed. It is earthy, eccentric, hugely charming and amazing value.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I cannot wait to go back after September 1st, take a bottle or two of sancerre and fill up on west Mersea natives.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The Company Shed</span><br />
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</span></div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-23276513060430627742011-06-09T11:24:00.000-07:002011-06-09T11:24:15.438-07:00Post number seventeen, 'My stay at the St John Hotel'<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">My love of all things 'Nose to tail' has never faltered. Since my first visit to Smithfield HQ in late '94 when I was astounded by the brilliant, raw, stylish simplicity of the food and the space I have revisited and generally watched with interest the development of brand 'St John'. I am a vehement disciple.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I was therefore 'chomping' at the bit to get down to the new Hotel. This visit was postponed several times due to building delays but I finally got my chance the other week to eat dinner there, sleep and eat breakfast the next morning.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I arrived about 7pm, the location is quirky for a St John establishment, literally off Leicester square, a very commercialised setting/environment. Check in was delightful assisted charmingly by Michelle; I scurried up to the room and I suppose first impressions were rather disappointing. The room was quite small and the bathroom was actually part of the room, maybe I was expecting a touch more for the three hundred and twenty pounds cost. I had a good nose around the room checking out the bits and bobs......it was all very proper and the finishings of everything were of a very high standard. Penhaligans toiletries, great mini bar and of course the most amazing room service menu I have ever seen, if you like St John that is. The pegs that adorn the walls in smithfield are cleverly used as a feature throughout the hotel, I liked that. I headed downstairs to the bar thinking this is all very exciting and that the room albeit a little small room was quite cool.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The bar itself is hidden away down at one end of a long, rather austere room. The layout of the building clearly determined this but it seems rather cut off, if, like me you take a seat at the opposite end. There was one other couple sharing a drink together and it all felt rather uneasy and somewhat lacking in a bit in atmosphere.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> No matter it was all very intriguing.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Downstairs for dinner then, what a contrast to the bar up stairs, it was buzzing. We sat near the front of the room, kitchen end. It is a similar space to St John bread and wine but obviously a bit more modern, a wee bit smaller too; Beautiful wooden floor, steel kitchen bar and wine racks, classic St John dark wood tables and chairs, pristine white table cloths, peugeot salt and pepper mills, perfect.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The food was fabulous; we all started with a couple of native oysters, only ever natives are served at St John. They were perfect, a delicious taste of the sea. Next for me sweetbreads with butter beans & wild garlic; pleasingly caramelised glands with a gorgeously giving, light interior.....the fragrance given by the herbs and further nuttiness of the butter beans made it a dish to behold.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Other starters around table were the pigs head terrine, impressive looking langoustines with the superb St John mayonnaise(for me St John's condiments/sauces/dressings are simply the best I taste, aioli, mayonnaise, ketchup, tartare sauce, vinaigrette, mustard or anchovy salad dressings, green sauce all serious, properly made examples). A top drawer Alsace white was excellent with our starters.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Main courses were beans and bacon, a sharing dish of unctuous joy, a strongly dressed watercress salad the perfect companion. Suckling pig loin, Rump of beef, roast potatoes, burgundy, the table was a happy place. This dining room is definitely more hectic than it's two relations but it is chinatown and in a way I liked the slightly frantic buzz.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">To finish, at St John one must have desserts, it is the finest desert menu in the land, Sundae and ginger cake were shared. Both brilliant, the Sundae was sort of deconstructed, it looked so pretty and tasted equally good. The ginger cake was sticky, spicy, sweet and purposeful.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Time for the bill, which definitely seemed slightly higher than Smithfield and SJ B & Wine, but for the fantastic meal I was more than happy. To do it properly, </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">three courses and good wine,</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> St John Hotel restaurant is one hundred pounds a head, to be honest that seems a benchmark figure in good London restaurants nowadays. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">After dinner drink was next up, sadly with the experience pre dinner the bar upstairs didn't feel like an option; we tried to get into the garish 'w' hotel that sits in front of the St John hotel but we didn't pass muster on the door, Dean street town house provided a most agreeable solution. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Returning back to the hotel I couldn't resist anther peep in the bar on the way up to our room, still empty, another drink seemed in order. Sipsmiths Gin and tonic, Campari and white wine, ooof we were on a roll by this point. We stood at the bar and happily engaged with the staff. There seemed to be a general consensus the bar needed some tweaking.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Bed! After initial crashing and burning I was awoken by the collection of bins or bottles outside(rather unfortunate the bin positioning by the restaurant but again space dictates)and also by the brightness in the room. The white venetians do little to prevent daylight/sunlight streaming through, maybe some black out would be in order behind the venetians. Ablutions in the open plan bathroom take place in front of the person who is with you in the room(if anyone is). This is fine for acquainted couples but no doubt slightly more awkward for ones in the early throws of courtship. Everything in the room oozed quality, the bath fittings, robes, towels, mats all branded with the synonymous pig.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Feeling slightly rough my heart and head was steadied by the thought of breakfast, I had high hopes. Into the ship like centre staircase, down in the lift, into the dining room, it was a much more sedate scene in the morning. Papers on hand, a few couples dotted around including Trevor Gulliver (Fergus was in the night before for dinner, they both keep a very watchful eye on front end proceedings) the menu is short and as always with St John, although classical in someways, often shy away from the obvious so no full english here. Instead smoked haddock, potato & egg, devilled kidneys on toast, ham, egg and fried bread provided the cooked options. I had Ham, egg & fried bread, it was very good, perfectly fried deep golden eggs, griddled succulent ham and just right fried bread. Corinne has the devilled kidneys, a generous amount nestling on the slab of sourdough, also perfect. Tea was good, we had ordered the 'buns', a kind of cross between a danish pastry and a croissant, very good, rich and buttery, a bit too much with our cooked breakfast. No matter they were wrapped and we took away to have for afternoon tea.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The bill for breakfast fifty pounds...again slightly pricey but I enjoyed every moment.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">So around 11am we checked out, a fair degree worse off in the pocket but very happy to have spent a night with St John. I will be back for breakfast, Lunch and dinner no doubt. The restaurant offers a fresh, updated St John dining experience in the west end, I am sure the menu's will expand as time goes on, already there are exciting additions to the breakfast and dinner menu's. The bar needs something(maybe just more people or bar stools) and the rooms themselves possibly don't offer great value for money but they are unique and I'm sure there will be no shortage of takers. The service from beginning to end was first class. I really enjoyed seeing the St John philosophy adapted into a new entity such as a hotel...........it works.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Long live the pig!</span><br />
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</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace; font-size: small;">St. John Hotel</span></h4><h4 style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"> 1 Leicester St, London, WC2H 7BL</span></span></h4><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 10px;"></span></span><br />
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<h4 style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">+44 (0) 203 301 8069 - </span></span><a href="mailto:reservations@stjohnhotellondon.com" style="color: #333333; font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">reservations@stjohnhotellondon.com</span></span></a></h4></div></div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-48496049423085681222011-02-08T13:59:00.000-08:002011-02-08T13:59:12.428-08:00Post number sixteen, # MEATEASY 'junk food extraordinaire'<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I had tasted a meatwagon cheeseburger twice before my visit to the #meateasy, I thought each time it was the most satisfying, brilliant, sloppy, hot, salty, peppery, greasy, burger I have ever eaten, a triumph.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">One other factor that had fascinated me about the meatwagon was it's almost cult like status.....at the 'towpath' festival in Islington on a freezing day last year I witnessed trendy young things bopping and slopping with burgers and beer by a big army tank, with a DJ of a driver, firing pumping tunes not bullets from the top. This gathering was prompted by in all probability a lone tweet the day before. There were other great street food stalls that day but the real draw was the meatwagon. When Yianni and the truck ventured south west to the @shipwandsworth burgers were sold out in a matter of a couple of hours, one sensed a phenomenon.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">It was therefore with sadness and disbelief I greeted the news of the dastardly theft of the meatwagon. The thought of some dirty rotten scoundrels depriving us Londoners of the joy of some proper burger, street-food joy was almost too much to bare.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Thankfully you cannot keep good people down; Yianni, the creator of the meatwagon, and Scott, the man responsible for hosting many meatwagon evenings in conjunction with his pubs, got their heads together and came up with the idea of a #meateasy. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">SE14 was to be the lucky postcode, a space above a rather decrepid pub,the goldsmiths tavern was to be the venue. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The tweeting then began, '#meateasy' plastered all over the twitter universe from noon till night day after day creating an almost insatiable desire to get down there and experience it for myself. The opportunity arose the other week to make the sortie to deepest south east London in the esteemed company of @mcmoop and @drapersarms and it was some experience.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The first thought that went through my mind as we marched around the back of the goldsmiths following the chalkboard signage was, god this is clever. Up the stairs, straight ahead a door, with the words written, 'You've made it, well done, not this door, that one' with an arrow pointing left. Pushing the correct door open we walked into another world, it could have been a scene from, 'from dusk till dawn', dark, frantic and cool, country western music bellowing out, yehaaaaa! there was an underground feel, you felt you have arrived somewhere special.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">To the right of the room a cocktail bar, trendy guys, some in pork pie hats, shaking trendy cocktails and dispensing in jam jars. After one or two of these great cocktails you are certainly in the mood and whatever wait there is, like the meatwagon everything is grilled to order, time becomes you friend not enemy.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The chalkboard menu unerringly tantalises your burger cravings until your time comes. There are more options than the wagon, we ordered a selection of the best bits; philly cheese steak, chilli cheese fries, chilli burger, dead hippy(a take on a big mac/in-n-out double), bacon cheeseburger, slaw, chilli cheese dog, mac & cheese...ooof....then.....our moment arrived;</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Paper plate, after paper plate descended on our table with a couple of rolls of giant paper roll to mop up. Silence prevailed....... everything was so fresh, hot and damn good. We began frantically slicing the assortment of burgers and dogs in half so we could all try everything (apart from the dead hippy, that disappeared in seconds flat, @mcmoop saw to that). Growls of satisfaction ensued.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">To experience the brilliant heart of the #meateasy for me the classic cheeseburger takes some beating, you get the taste of the loosely ground well aged, super seasoned beef so well, but I adored the spicy chilli burger and the heavenly chilli dog, a beefy smokey beast of a sausage smothered in a great meaty, punchy chilli and cheese. In fact it was all memorable. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">There are many good 'posh' burgers to be tried across London town but there are virtually no great proper high grade and well made 'junk food' style burgers to be had anywhere bar this place. Or at least to my knowledge that is. Couple that with an eclectic, electric atmosphere, you could call it something of a sensation.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The meateasy is something new, fresh and brilliant. Surely eight weeks above the goldmiths tavern in se14 is just the start of it's life.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">www.themeatwagon.co.uk for details </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div></div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-27054549799627098622010-12-10T03:58:00.000-08:002010-12-10T03:58:17.936-08:00Post number fifteen, 'Team Ramsden's Secret Larder'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I wasn't ever really very sure what to make of the rather modern development of supper clubs. In fact I probably would not have been to one right now if I hadn't met a certain young man called James Ramsden one night at the splendid Drapers Arms in Islington.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Post that and from following James's twitter feed I was intrigued with the development of his own supper club, the cutely monickered 'Secret Larder' and I went along to a very early performance. It was a nice evening, I met some interesting people but wasn't overly excited with the food I ate. There was nothing wrong with it, maybe I was expecting too much, but I vowed I would return in any case to give it another go.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">That other go came the other week and I was delighted to see, that in taste and feel that the 'larder' had settled down, bedded in and has grown to be absolutely charming.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I also think the attitude I went into the evening with was a better one, my expectation was more aligned to going to a friends house for dinner, not going to a restaurant. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">James had drafted in support in the form of the delightful Oliver Thring for this special 'game evening', quality abounded around the nicely 'lofty' space that is their appartment, James, Mary, Oliver, the staff all calm, relaxed and great 'mine hosts'.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Celeriac soup, drizzled with truffle oil to start was good....above all, in serving twenty people it was piping hot, and perfectly tasty.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Next a pigeon breast salad with an asian sounding mushroom, it was fine. Most importantly not overcooked, perfect breast (stop it).</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Main event....partridge, served up in good time, well seasoned, some better cooked than others(but there were twenty and it's damn hard to get Partridge 'a point'), good bread sauce, super braised red cabbage, it was really quite tasty.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Desert of poached pears with creme fraiche was excellent actually.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Last but not least some petits fours including some delicious marshmallows filled with strawberry's, Oliver's handy work I believe.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I took along a fine New Zealand pinot noir to drink, on our table a charming lady called Lucy had bought an amazing french white to start followed by my dream red burgundy chambolle musigny, she was kind enough to share a bit with us. That is why supper clubs are great, like minded individuals sharing and talking, an enjoyable different type of platform on which to enjoy food and drink.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I refer you to the notes on my blackberry which were the basis of this post. As usual I am really quite late in writing it up;</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b><i>Veeery nice(yes was pissed)</i></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b><i>Quite personal</i></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b><i>Some one's home which you have an insight in to (nosey got shot?)</i></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b><i>Wonderful wine, great company, good food.</i></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b><i>Integrity...the Ramsden's have loads of that.</i></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">So if you have never been, to a supper club that is (or even if you have) it is well worth a visit to this one. You will have a throughly enjoyable evening and will be handsomely looked after by charming, young, talented people who set a fantastic tone.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">'<b>The secret larder"</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>cost for three or four courses approx thirty five pounds.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>follow @jteramsden on twitter for details of forthcoming events</b></span><br />
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</span>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-45931495943674940652010-09-30T06:22:00.000-07:002010-09-30T06:22:30.085-07:00Post number fourteen, 'Petersham Nurseries'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUZZm4kDronPQuamVTKzBIg0SXIkAzsATHj8ry6zF7cmh8cNQn4rHJU8rlTUQjm2Od4n6WWju6Cmw3c7gRarf-7NjhUcQw97pR-0THvoWKny2r86hoeT4nw0KKQSPJ0CdQvQTBSyE-jfkF/s1600/petersham.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUZZm4kDronPQuamVTKzBIg0SXIkAzsATHj8ry6zF7cmh8cNQn4rHJU8rlTUQjm2Od4n6WWju6Cmw3c7gRarf-7NjhUcQw97pR-0THvoWKny2r86hoeT4nw0KKQSPJ0CdQvQTBSyE-jfkF/s200/petersham.jpg" width="195" /></a></div><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">Richmond riverside is quite beautiful. That stunning view from the road the runs out of Richmond gate towards the town centre, past Mick jagger's house, you know the one.</span> <span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">The river bending away towards Ham, Twickenham in the distance, the Petersham hotel proudly sharing the view with you. Somewhere down there on the left before the river winds right is one of the most eclectic and coolest nurseries in London, Petersham nurseries. Home to a fantastic restaurant run by a hugely talented lady, Skye Gyngell.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">How it came to pass that a Chef with the talent of Skye opened a restaurant in a greenhouse in a nurseries in Petersham I am not too sure but delighted diners have been enjoying it since 2004.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">That said the nurseries and Skye are actually somewhat of a dream team. Her focus revolves around cooking seasonal, superbly sourced ingredients, I suspect a good deal of which are grown within a stones throw of the shed like kitchen. Her style is to me a food heaven, kind of St John meets River Cafe with a slice of Alice Waters thrown in. I believe she worked with Fergus Henderson way back in his French house days.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">I managed to procure a relatively last minute booking on the last bank holiday of august(it has been extremely hard in past to get a reservation) and I was pretty much blown away with the place and the food I ate.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">The dining room is really a stylishly adorned greenhouse, the amazing colour of the natural dirt floor was the first thing that hit me, cadbury's crunchie honeycomb gold, stunning albeit uneven and no doubt messy on more inclement days. We were very fortunate with our bank holiday weather this particular day, sun glorious sun.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">The ever changing menu is a delight, full of saliva inducing interesting combination's. Sea bass, chicory salad and aioli, squid and romesco sauce, Guinea fowl and special, Peteresham tomatoes. All so good.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">As bubbly goodness to start we all were suckered in by the rose petal, rose watered proseco, a delicious aperitife.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">I chose the squid with romesco sauce to start followed by the fillet of beef with farro and salsa verde...served at room temperature (was knowingly informed of that ).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">The squid plate was so pretty, there is real thought in presentation here, a rustic style but hugely appealing. The beef was fantastic, perfectly rare but heat had been allowed to seep through, it melted in my mouth. The farro and salsa verde was superb with it, a touch of preserved lemon in there too which added a lovely citrus fragrance to the accompaniment.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Courier New;">For dessert I had a hazelnut tart with creme fraiche and some perfect raspberries.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">Two Italian wines with our meal, a light herby white and a fruity cool red, both excellent.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">The fact is just this; The food was sensational, the service was just ok really. The surrounds were as special as the food. A moment in time.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">The cooking at Petersham nurseries is better than that I experienced at my visit to Chez Panisse last December, indeed the heart of these two restaurants is very similar.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">Chez Panisse has one michelin star, Skye Gyngell deserves that accolade too for the wonderful entity she has created, on the Thames, near Richmond. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">It's a special occasion venue, it's River Cafe prices and on this experience for me, slightly better. It's undoubtedly more pleasing in the summer than winter, but you have to go, if you love to experience a kitchen that thrives on the passion of seasonal, innovative quality food.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">for our sunny bank holiday magical experience</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">, five out of five stars. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">Off Petersham Road</span><br />
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</span>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-89138641868377921792010-08-11T09:18:00.000-07:002010-08-11T09:18:28.824-07:00Post number thirteen, 'Bob Bob Ricard'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoVBOv5war87TtkpyfjaB5opJKF5znGAFOXUrLcP5ju0NKyN8jGbCjEpSuRFQ158MxCvzPqIBrwB6wvq-9lu9lBluRUoxQxqC1eSdJS5U6ZGJHYESfjoKKQrZDfkJWXsrgTfDwg1OMOb8h/s1600/bbr_tile2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoVBOv5war87TtkpyfjaB5opJKF5znGAFOXUrLcP5ju0NKyN8jGbCjEpSuRFQ158MxCvzPqIBrwB6wvq-9lu9lBluRUoxQxqC1eSdJS5U6ZGJHYESfjoKKQrZDfkJWXsrgTfDwg1OMOb8h/s200/bbr_tile2.png" width="146" /></a></div><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I have read so many good reviews of BBR, mostly from food bloggers. I must say in the beginning I was somewhat confused by all this enthusiasm as it totally contradicted the first review I ever read written by Adrian Gill where he simply destroyed the place.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">The other week I had a perfect opportunity to try it for myself and see what the fuss was all about; I had to entertain a couple and the only remit was that 'fun' was required. Fun is exactly what we had.....and some!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All the outlandish adjectives and whimsical descriptions you may have read about the interior of BBR do still not condition you for the shock and awe as you enter the magnificent space. We were greeted by a sweet young lady dressed in a suitably 'snazzy' ensemble. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">We were shown to our booth which reminded me of an Edwardian railway carriage, as we sat down I immediately felt a sense of occasion and knew I was going to enjoy the BBR experience (the millions lavished on the place are worth it you see).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Everywhere you look you cannot escape the BBR opulence. The light pink that has been used (see above) throughout the menu's and other little bits of printed matter is genius and sets the tone brilliantly. It reminds me of the colour the Mount Nelson hotel is Cape Town is painted, retro, colonial, powerful, seductive pink.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">One of the great things about BBR is that you just feel you HAVE to indulge in a cocktail or two, it's that kind of place; I ordered the house drink of rhubarb gin for the table, it was simply superb resplendent in the beautiful, ornate glassware that is a strong feature of BBR. We had a second round quickly. I have subsequently thought that going to BBR and not ordering a rhubarb gin would be like going to Harry's bar in Venice and not ordering a bellini. Wrong.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">The menu is the collection of diner retro classics that you expect and hope for. It is fun, it does not create big, difficult decisions in your head but tickles the part of your brain reserved for smiley comfort food decisions. Potted shrimp, Lobster cocktail, smoked salmon, steak tartare, beef wellington, crispy chicken, onglet steak, hamburger and chips, lobster and chips, knickerbocker glory, strawberry souflee...bet your smiling. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Our table had a mixture of smoked salmon(hedermans, quite the best I have ever tasted), egg benedict and potted shrimp to start...a couple of rhubarb gins down and things were flying along. Um's and rrr's of satisfaction sounded out from our decadent booth, we were comfortable, satisfied and happy, already!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">The wine list is competently put together and complete in it's offer, I plumped for a relatively basic New Zealand pinot noir that was fine.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> I could not ignore the O'sheas onglet for my main course; the meat was as good as ever but I found there was too much of the sweet shallot confection on the plate, the chips were good. My dining companions had a burger and fishcake, they were extremely happy. Presentation and detail are never left wanting in BBR. The quality of the ingredients and cooking is high.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I had a fine strawberry souffle to finish......and then the waiting was over. That button for champagne had to be pressed. Pol roger house champagne served in once again beautiful glassware. I forget what a brilliant way to end a meal champagne is, in many ways it offers more at the end rather than the beginning of a meal.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Champagne finished it was time for Vodka, a cute little goblet full of Russia's finest arrived, ice cold, it was punchy. Oooof.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">By this time our booth was in seventh heaven, it felt like we were riding gloriously in a carriage on the beginning of term 'Hogwarts' express, no tricks just gaiety. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">What a journey.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">In all seriousness our city needs restaurants like this, London's restaurant offer can be too stern. The New York restaurant scene has fun in abundance, we have the quality but sometimes lack that fun, BBR combines both. It is an extremely worthy option to the Wolseley(maybe that's what grated on Adrian so), possibly a bit 'nouveau' in comparison and maybe lacking that sublime Corbin and King service, but so what. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If you feel like a wonderful, fun, easy, quality, opulent and boozy evening out in London town then get you best mates together, get dressed up and get down to upper James street and treat yourselves.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Three cheers for Bob is what I say.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Food- nearly four out of five stars</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Bob Bob Ricard</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">1 Upper James Street</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">London</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> </span>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-20547192691425843372010-07-22T09:19:00.000-07:002010-07-22T09:19:01.613-07:00Post number twelve, 'The Drapers Arms'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">I watched with great interest the opening of the Drapers Arms in Islington. I knew that the chef was ex St John, I </span><span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">knew it would in all probability be my kind of pub. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">The only snag was it was in north London, a 'foreign' land to a devoted south west chap like myself, still I was determined to get up there and see what was on offer. I was delighted to see the arrival of the Drapers Arms on twitter and from that point early on was able to follow their menu's etc.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">The first occasion for a visit arose with a charity quiz night that Nick(joint owner along with Ben Maschler) put together. The location of the pub was exactly what I expected, an impressive Georgian building overlooking an imposing Georgian square. Inside the decor is simple, elegant and stylish, with quite a few 'nods' to the term 'Drapers'; a lovely collection of cotton reels (inspiring the picture above), some impressive 'scissor art'. The quiz night was more of introduction to the place for me, I met some esteemed food blogger's for the first time, Lizzy, Chris, Helen, James, Regina, Krista, Dan.....a lovely, friendly bunch. It was a fun, boozy evening and I felt endeared to the pub quite quickly. I ate rather hurriedly and did not pay too much attention to the food. I knew I would be back.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">My second visit was for a 'pig fest', again an event that Nick had thought up, a celebration of all things porky. There were highlights on the food front, home cured ham with pickles, a great bean and belly stew, there were also a couple of bits that were a touch off key, notably a slightly dried out pork loin. That was however a group event, feeding forty or so diners all at once is a challenge to any kitchen so I promised myself I would return soon after that and eat from the menu proper and get a firm handle on the place.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">That moment came the other week and I was mightily impressed with the food I ate; jellied shin of beef to start with pickled red cabbage and toast was delicious, giving unctuous hunks of shin with the odd caper and balanced brilliantly by the pickled red cabbage. Visually pleasing too, the dark earthy color of meat against the bright red cabbage.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">The main course I chose was quail with pearl barley, chickpeas and red onion. The quail was cooked to perfection, the legs easily pulling off so I could get to grips with the flavorsome meat of the little bones. Quail really is a fantastic bird to have on menus, it is versatile, relatively easy to cook, available all year and delicious. The pearl barley and chickpeas with red onion, mint and parsley complimented it really well, if it had been me making this I would have been tempted to dress it more heavily, but as I eased my way through the dish, I soon realized that was not necessary. In fact it speaks volumes about the cooking at the place that they have the confidence to send out such pared down plates of food, relying on the ingredients and quality of cooking.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">I had the pleasure of eating with Nick that night in the pubs charming and well stocked garden; his main course of perfectly pink lamb sitting proudly on a heap of bright green pea puree looked splendid and according to the man himself it was delicious to eat.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">To finish I ordered the 'Keens' cheddar, a hearty lump of top drawer cheese, it was in perfect condition, crumbly and strong in flavor. Simple water biscuits and a slice of quince were all that were served with it, it was all that was needed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">To drink I had well kept Sam Brooks wandle ale to kick off with followed by chilled Beaujolais. Prices are keen and offer real value, starters five to seven pounds, main courses ten to fourteen.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">As I plodded down Liverpool road back south after I reflected on a delicious and highly enjoyable dining experience. The menu has it's own interesting and innovative twist on the bible that is nose to tail eating, the service is friendly and efficient, the pub is reassuringly pleasant and calm.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">I look forward to my next meal at the Drapers knowing that if I was local I would almost definitely be there weekly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">four out of five stars</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">The Drapers Arms</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">44 Barnsbury Street</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"></span>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-46274603325730946932010-06-10T09:10:00.000-07:002010-06-10T09:10:41.688-07:00Post number eleven, a round of applause for 'The Ship Wandsworth'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTlALbsfDFDjXBNJWx9zB2DEcGSRPbJZPkqj76-mgaETRHsKsPlbX-YS5TiqlPbAECSrWk8u5SKvIUTexUgb3v7U-owpsSfiZCQIfSIBgU7X3PTjp5TnWHHpqxdGpDpMsn47U8C-wIBfhU/s1600/2383999374_71253a2a12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTlALbsfDFDjXBNJWx9zB2DEcGSRPbJZPkqj76-mgaETRHsKsPlbX-YS5TiqlPbAECSrWk8u5SKvIUTexUgb3v7U-owpsSfiZCQIfSIBgU7X3PTjp5TnWHHpqxdGpDpMsn47U8C-wIBfhU/s320/2383999374_71253a2a12.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">The ship in wandsworth is an iconic local for us south west Londoners. Over the years I have spent many a long summers afternoon there enjoying multiple pints and general gaiety. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I have never particularly taken much notice of the food that is on offer apart from the infamous barbecues. This changed somewhat for me quite recently when I bowled along for an impromptu shepherds pie, it was really excellent, well seasoned unctuous minced lamb with a buttery potato topping served with al dente green beans. I then started to investigate a bit further to ascertain what was going down in the kitchens on jews row.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">It became apparent that since the last time I ate there, probably over four years ago, new management was in place along with a new chef.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I have wondered along on various lunch times and evenings since that 'shepherds pie visit' and have been really impressed with the vibrant feeling about the place. Yes it has always been busy but it seems like the pub is 'flying' nowadays. Team ship; Osh, Emma, Phil and David in the kitchen are great hosts and deserve much credit for making the ship such a fun place to visit.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Thankfully youngs/charles wells the owning brewer has allowed the ship to stock the delicious and local wandle brew from sam brooks brewery so great bitter is on offer amongst the lagers and wines. The youngs best bitter has never been the same since production shifted to bedfordshire from wandsworth</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">As for the food, David has done a great job with the menu, he is a very enthusiastic, driven chef who clearly has high demands for the quality and innovation of cooking that comes out of the kitchen.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I was invited along recently to try the new spring summer menu and was impressed; starters of crayfish cocktail, asparagus with perfectly poached egg and a very good hollandaise, nicely caramelized scallops with fresh pea tortellini shone. A memorable main course of new seasons lamb with kidney, black pudding, mash potato and broad beans worked well, the lamb rump and kidneys cooked pleasingly blushing pink. Dessert lovers will not be disappointed either with winning dishes such as orange panacotta with poached rhubarb and sticky toffee pudding on offer.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I have been told by friends that the sunday roast the ship offers is superb, and they bat on serving it all day. It really is a well run, punter friendly pub.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">There is also quality live music on all the time and I am told it IS the place to be if you fancy a large sunday evening. They are consistently drawing big, fun crowds. The riverside garden is one of the best I have seen thameside.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I am lucky enough to be local but really the ship is worthy of a special visit. Great beer, good quality, well prepared restaurant food or an accessible, efficient and tasty barbecue plus a great garden, live music and an undoubted warm welcome awaits. </span><br />
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</span>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-34129474493895510472010-05-25T10:39:00.000-07:002010-05-25T10:39:48.785-07:00Post number ten, 'Wright Brothers', Borough market<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">I am by no means an authority on oysters, I just know I enjoy eating them. I was introduced to native oysters by a friend of my fathers some time ago, he was Irish and passionate about them, he ran the local pub near where I was bought up. The taste, feeling and texture of eating oysters seemed quite odd back then but now it is something I crave on occasions. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Like Cornelius showed me back then, I still like to dress them with a squeeze of lemon, black pepper and a spot of Tabasco.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">I had read about Wright Brothers in Borough market and had wanted to go for sometime, last St Georges day, April 23rd(yes a very delayed post this one, there are reasons for that but...) I booked a table for lunch and had, I must say, a fantastic experience.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">The Wright Brothers were originally just a wholesaler of oysters selling to all of London's top establishments, it is only in relatively recent years they have become restaurateurs.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Situated on Stoney street right next to the bustling heart of the market, it is an atmospheric room with suitably nautical/fishy decorations that work really well. It is an oyster and porter house so the menu is dominated by shellfish and fish with the welcome addition of dishes like steak and oyster pie. There is a bar running most of the way around the place, and even the tables in the center of the restaurant are high with stool seating. It works. We were greeted by an excellent front of house (Jeremy if my memory serves me well) and after some 'jiggery pokery' we managed to talk ourselves onto the bars stools right in front of the kitchen, the 'chefs table' said Jeremy tongue in cheekily.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Happily seated we began with West Mersea Native oysters, I had requested Helford Natives but due to an algae bloom in the Helford river stocks are dead and four years growing time is now required to replenish the beauties. No matter, the West Mersea natives were superb, a delightful taste of the sea. We were nearing the end of the native season so it was particularly pleasing to be sneaking some in. I am sure you all know natives are the wild, naturally, organically grown oysters, unlike the predominantly farmed rocks, they have the classic oyster shape, being rounder in appearance rather than the slightly elongated rock oyster. I have been led to believe they taste better than rocks, some would disagree with that but I tend to stick to eating natives, I like the seasonal and local tip that surrounds them.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Next up I noticed that Wright Brothers has Frank Hedermans smoked salmon on the menu, it would have been rude not to have had ordered that so we did, it was magical. I think it is the best smoked salmon I have ever tasted, subtly smoked, thickly cut and served at perfect temperature, it was devoured in minutes. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Things were going swimmingly, a brilliant inexpensive Argentinean sauvignon(La flor Mendoza, nineteen pounds) was slipping down a treat and I was really enjoying watching the serene and clearly very capable chefs at work in the kitchen. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">For my main course I had dressed Cornish crab with mayonnaise, it was very good indeed. A fine amount of the essential brown meat to compliment the white, topped with very finely chopped egg. The mayonnaise was also a top, home made emulsion, I liked the piquancy given to it by the cayenne pepper that had been added.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">My colleagues had steak and oyster pie, they both said it was the best pie they had eaten for years.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">The bill came to about forty five pounds a head which was great value considering what we had eaten, oysters, crab, salmon and drunk, four of five bottles of wine. It was St Georges day! </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">If you like oysters, or in fact fish of any kind this place is a must in my opinion. The service, standard of cooking and atmosphere is fantastic.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Oh and if you are on the Lizard peninsula or anywhere in the south of Cornwall at anytime you can visit their Cornish outpost, the Ferryboat Inn in Helford passage. I have been there on a couple of occasions and it's position on the banks of the beautiful Helford river is stunning. It is more of a pub than the Borough market site but equally as good.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">four out of five stars</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Wright Brothers</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">11 Stoney Street</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">Borough Market</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">London</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">SE1 9AD</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;">www.wrightbros.eu.com</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New',Courier,monospace;"><br />
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</span></div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-25528905837489993422010-05-08T01:15:00.000-07:002010-05-08T01:19:28.065-07:00Post number nine, 'Eggs, glorious eggs'.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">What beautiful things eggs are, I have always been fascinated with them. They look so perfect don't they? resplendent in their own elegant shape and vibrant in their plethora of natural colours. One of my favorite colours is duck egg blue.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I have always appreciated their value in the world of gastronomy, but as I have read more over the years, and understood better how they should be cooked, I have increasingly enjoyed eating them.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Whether it be an omelette, soft or hard boiled, fried, scrambled, poached or coddled they can create pretty instant genius in the kitchen. It clear that freshness is critical when preparing such dishes as omelette's and scrambled eggs. In Elizabeth David's fantastic collection of prose, 'An Omelette and a glass of wine' there is a piece about this particular little restaurant in France that was famous for omelette's. She describes how a rather keen diner wrote to the madame who owned the establishment wanting to know her secret, the proprietor replied ' Dear Madame, thank you for your letter. To make my omelette's I break the freshest eggs into a bowl, I mix carefully, season then pour into a warm pan, with some butter, I move the mixture gently around the pan and after a few minutes it is ready and I serve, thank you for your interest.', the secret was only the freshness.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The use of heat and seasoning when preparing all types of egg dishes is key; when frying, scrambling and making omelette's the importance of a thick, oiled pan and the correct level of flame, when boiling getting your timings right so as to produce the result you want. I find seven minutes gives you a pretty perfect hard boiled egg, still with a slightly giving yolk. Oh and the immediate requirement to submerge hard or soft boiled eggs into cold water once time is up to keep the golden yellow yolk just that. A poorly seasoned egg is not a happy one, salt and pepper make eggs smile.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Superb egg dishes that I have eaten at restaurants come to mind effortlessly; omelette Arnold Bennett at the Savoy, there is something magical about the combination of smoked haddock, eggs and cheese. Last year at Chez George in Paris I started my lunch with oeuf en gelee, it was totally memorable, molded in meaty aspic with a piece of ham and a sprig of tarragon on top, served with the freshest frisee. Eggs in aspic like this should be used more widely, it's a bit seventies maybe but superb none the less. Last but least souffle Suissesse at Gavroche is one of the best dishes I have ever eaten, each time I go there(I try at least once a year) I begin with this masterpiece of French cuisine. Made with many eggs, resulting in a creamy, cheesy, rich culinary delight, it's just sensational.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The role of the egg has no bounds actually. The amazing emulsion that is created when yolks are mixed with oil to form mayonnaise and the previously alluded to here on this blog <a href="http://www.smokeynlentils.blogspot.com/2010/04/post-number-six-aioli-and-great.html">aioli</a>. Hard boiled and chopped and used to add texture and flavour to a sauce such as tartare, or sauce gribiche, or simply hard boiled and sliced as a garnish on a salad. Simon Hopkinson once paid Richard Olney(a fantastic American food writer who took up residence in Provence) a visit at his home, he recounted a salad that Richard served as a starter for him, with fresh green salad leaves and bright purple edible flowers both harvested from his garden that morning, served with hard boiled eggs sliced on top. Can you imagine the green, purple and bright yellow of the egg on the plate? eating on a terrace in Provencal sunshine, no doubt dressed with Richard's home made olive oil and vinegar. Drinking rose wine. So deliciously romantic.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">An interesting question to pose oneself would be what is the eggs greatest companion? bacon or ham must be pretty high up there. A breakfast of fried eggs and bacon actually needs no support, similarly fine cooked ham with fried eggs needs little adornment. At this time of the year what could be better than dipping freshly steamed asparagus into a soft boiled egg?</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">For years on the great St John restaurant menu a starter of bacon, egg and beans appeared. I kept missing it on my visits to the restaurant, eventually I collided with it and what a brilliant plate of food it was. It always amuses me the way Fergus(Henderson)likes to play on names of dishes and one could have been forgiven thinking this was some kind of ode to breakfast. It was of course none of the sort. It is a delicious, easy and intelligent use of bacon and egg together with the added freshness of green beans and parsley, it works like a dream;</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">three eggs(boiled for seven minutes, put into cold water, peeled and halved)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">unsmoked bacon lardons fried off and drained of fat or left over pot roast of bacon cut into pieces, couple of handfuls worth</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">two handfuls of green beans topped and tailed then boiled in salted water until bendy, no more. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">good handful of flat leaf or curly parsley finely chopped</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">vinaigrette(oil, vinegar, lemon juice, crushed garlic clove, seasoning, dollop of Dijon mustard)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Throw the cooked beans and bacon into a mixing bowl, add parsley, mix and dress with vinaigrette. Season a bit more. Place a mound of the beans onto a plate, slice an egg, it should still have a gooey yolk, and lay three halves on the beans. Add a bit more parsley and drizzle of dressing and serve.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">It is appropriate to finish with something from dear Elizabeth David. For it was her more than anyone that inspired me with her writing about eggs and in particular omelette's. Below is her recipe for omelette moliere, she used to eat it in a little restaurant in Avignon she frequented, it was one of her favorites and after many years of cooking and eating it myself I can see why.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Beat the eggs gently and fold in the Parmesan, season with salt and pepper. Heat your favorite omelette pan for a minute or so on the stove and throw in the butter. Just as the butter starts to bubble and before it changes colour pour in the egg mixture, throw in the little dices of Gruyere and cream. Tilt the pan toward you, then away from you, maybe twice each way. The Gruyere will be slightly melting now, the omelette is ready. Fold the omelette or tip out in concertina fashion, up to you. You should have a golden, puffy roll of joy, spilling out a little at the edges. Serve immediately with a sharply dressed green salad.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Sub note</b>; I realise that in this post I have only touched on the savory side of eggs. It is my intention to one day be able to understand well, then write about, the wonder of cake and all things sweet involving eggs too. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-71844470539854189192010-04-29T02:41:00.000-07:002010-04-29T02:41:27.010-07:00Post number eight, 'La Merenda', Nice<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I have been lucky enough to be going to Nice regularly over the last fifteen years. I love the place, it's a 'real' city unlike some of it's more illustrious neighbors. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I have enjoyed many great lunches and dinners over that time particularly at La Petite Maison, despite the rather prickly madame who owns the place. Peppered steak with greens beans and potato puree at Petite maison is quite spectacular(of Racine like proportions), as is their roast chicken stuffed with foie Gras, oh and their white chocolate mouse, heavy duty full on rather delicious rich french cuisine.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">A couple of years back I began the search in Nice for a less 'flouncy', more down to earth restuarant where I could eat a more basic style of provencal/nicoise cooking. I remembered this little place I had stumbled past one drunken evening quite some time ago and decided to go back and investigate. All I could recall was it seemed french, it looked tiny and the menu was concise.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">So off to the flower market I trotted, quite pleased I was able to recall the general vicinity of the restaurant. It was very early evening I remember, not long after seven. I pushed open the door and there it was, the tiniest restaurant I had ever stepped into. About thirty seats all crammed together, and even at this very young and tender evening service hour it was nigh on packed and buzzing. Luckily there was just enough space for my companion and myself.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The young man who greeted us and assisted the tricky manouvre into our seats was polite and cool. He re-appeared at the table quite sharpishly with a little black board and ran us through the menu. It was exactly what I was looking for(due to the fact Nice was once part of Italy there are heavy Italian influences in the local cuisine); to start there was stuffed sardines, ham, a little home made pizza, onion tart. For main courses a beef stew, tripe, sausages and lentils, homemade pasta with pistou, a gutsy french sausage made with offal, a pungent air dried fish preparation called stockfish. There were two wine choices. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I ordered pizza and the tripe to follow. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The wine arrived quickly, as if by magic, it was excellent and very local. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I then started to observe the set up and it became clear I was in somewhere quite special. At the back of the restaurant was the chef, calmness personified, cooking, tasting, watching his audience. He was, like his trusty front of house dressed in a cool, earthy denim overall........little things. The kitchen hardware was high quality, copper pans, a fantastic looking stove dominating his 'workshop'. The interior of the place oozed quality, really interesting pieces of art adorned the little walls, hessian draping from the ceiling. Bold provencal vase's on a couple of tables packed with beautiful flowers. The crockery was cute as too the bizarrely, kind of vintage 'disney-esq' water glasses, it was quirkly in a quality way. I was fascinated.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The little pizza arrived, a 'bready' pizza I must say but that kind of fitted the bill. It tasted excellent, what I noticed most of all was the intesity of the tomato and and brightness of the herbs on it. Next tripe, Nice style. This was so delicious, melting, giving and unctuous after very slow cooking. It had a slight piquancy. It was served with a 'panisse' as was my dining partners beef stew. I have since grown to adore 'panisse', it is a kind of fritter made from chickpea flour. At La Merenda it is used all the time. This particular dinner finished with a perfect disc of goats cheese smothered in beautiful olive oil, simplicity. Good nicoise olive oil is awe inspiring stuff.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Once the evening was over, engulfed with the charm of the place, I returned to my hotel room and started searching the internet for information about La Merenda and the story is a beautiful one. It revolves around Dominic Le Stanc, a two michelin starred chef who left behind the pomp and ceremony of the Chantecler at the Negresco and bought the little jewell about ten years ago. He had clearly had enough of souffles and reductions and wanted to cook paired down, real nicoise food.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I go back each and every time I visit Nice now and I have to say it offers the most charming eating experience each time. Dominic and his fantastic front of house assistance from his wife at lunch time, and the 'cool' chap in the evenings are always friendly and warm. I have been through the preverbial 'card' menu wise; sometimes something new pops in, I was there last week and they excitedly explained to me about these special raw small fish they had in, of course I had to order them, as a pre starter on toast, and it was magnificent. The beef stew is fantastic as is the andouilette but my favorite combination seems to have settled on either stuffed sardines or pizza to start followed by the tripe, sprinkled heavily with cheese. There is always a beautiful sweet tart to finish with if required.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I believe it is a truly unique restaurant due to its size and purity of the menu and food it offers. Don't get me wrong its not food that is going to blow you away, it is simple, home cooked, locally sourced regional fare produced with meticulous care and love. It is the sort of restaurant that should exist everywhere but doesn't. It is my (pipe)dream to be the chef/patron of such an establishment. London's closest comparable restaurant would be the magical Giaconda dining room.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I wanted to show you a copy of the card from La Merenda to finish with but alas I have lost it; it has a fun little painting reproduced on it then in french it says; </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">'La Merenda, lunch 12-3, dinner 7-10, no telephone, no reservations, closed on Saturday and Sunday.' It is closed for most of August.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">You see La Merenda is run by Dominic and to suit Dominic, that's why it works. That's why it is always fresh, consistant and alive. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">All I can say is long may it live, it's bloody marvellous.</span><br />
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</span>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-79570272057521695162010-04-21T10:59:00.000-07:002010-04-21T10:59:11.408-07:00Post number seven, 'Steak Frites at Racine'<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I had been to Racine on two previous occasions to this and had been mightily impressed. It is a 'proper' restaurant, solid, neat and excellent. Fortunately these visits did not coincide with chef/patron Henry Harris's transfer to the soho house group, he was back at Racine by the time I walked of Brompton Road into what I would describe now as a little piece of food heaven.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">It was with delight then that I attended the inaugural Steak Frites event superbly put together by Henry(@racine_kitchen), Daniel(@youngandfoodish) and Dino(@Gastro1). Not forgetting family O'shea (@osheasbutchers) who supplied the magnificent beef. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The evening started with an introduction by Daniel and a fascinating explanation from Henry as to why he chooses to source his beef from O'sheas and why it is SO GOOD! Henry is one of those speakers who mesmerises you, his passion and knowledge for food seeping out of him like the melting fat in one of his Cote de Boeuf's as he teases it around a hot butter laden skillet. Marvellous stuff.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">With the introductions over the eating began; first up onglet, shallots, spring garlic and bone marrow on toast. All I can say about this dish is sensational. I love onglet but this was the best piece of onglet I have ever eaten, period. That deep liverish flavour flying at your taste buds, it can be tough, this was tender and beautiful. The wine reduction, shallots, garlic and bone marrow made it a death row dish. Around the room, there were moans and groans of delight in between the gulping of a very fine and delightfully matched Morgon beaujolais. What a start, what a hard act to follow.....</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I think that the group that night was slightly fortunate in that this was a second time around for 'team steak frites', a dry run with the powers that be had already taken place. As Henry explained for our second dish, fillet with a potato and blue cheese puree, he altered the cooking process and instead of individually dealing with a piece of filet for each diner, he took the middle section of a chateaubriand, coated in a thick layer of peppercorns, then cooked as a piece and sliced. (One great tip Henry gave us was sieving the black peppercorns when crushed. It is the dust from the crushing that burns, when removed it allows proper caramalisation and creates a perfect crust) The resulting dish was again spectacular. It was perhaps the weak link on paper that evening, however I think Henry holds a shining light for peppered fillet, possibly why it was so brilliant; the perfectly rare melting fillet, a wonderful cheesey potato puree and rich reduction, my god it was good. A Santa Cristina Antiniori again a prefect, fruity wine match. The second dish in my opinion had lived up to the first.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">So onto the third, the famous O'sheas Cote de boeuf. One has to say it was in a terribly disadvantaged position coming up after two such wonderful plates of food. It was served with a green leaf and shallot salad, chips and bearnaise. It was actually my third favorite of the evening. The beef was good, not the best Cote de boeuf I have had. As Henry explained cuts off different beasts will vary, it's no science. The chips were fine and the bearnaise very good indeed. I ate everything that had been put in front of me. Again the wine matching worked, a happy and gutsy Cote du Rhone partnered the Cote du boeuf.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">To finish, vanilla ice cream with a pot of melting Valrhona chocolate sauce and some very fine biscuits. Once again Henry stepped in with an explanation as to why Valrhona, 72% cocoa apparantly. Not only were we eating magical food but we were being educated. Lucky us.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">So for me, in terms of the beef, my order of favorites were; one(onglet), two(fillet), three(Cote de boeuf)......or was it a two, one, three....uurrrggg.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">It was a most fantastic evening. The cooking, the beef, the organisation and the company were an absolute joy.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I will go back to Racine very soon, probably for a weekday lunch, knowing that I can dive accross the road afterwards to O'sheas and purchase some onglet for dinner. A win double of the highest order.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">five out of five stars</span><br />
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</span>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-11141921583238287552010-04-07T01:38:00.000-07:002010-04-07T01:38:21.472-07:00Post number six, 'Aioli' and a great barbecue lunch<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfFX1TIRAuP5dIEN1DZj6QqXcu2UxGsZNYEkqh6047SNFPaNoaDIUImWm6oQNwvaL0MfB_qYUre5G1TYlpax8GR-I1lz7NzPfQBoaDp_DibUayx8ShiiKXV2SkjdB1dkUVieIgb7YQpxw/s1600/349883289_c7b1b16c63.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfFX1TIRAuP5dIEN1DZj6QqXcu2UxGsZNYEkqh6047SNFPaNoaDIUImWm6oQNwvaL0MfB_qYUre5G1TYlpax8GR-I1lz7NzPfQBoaDp_DibUayx8ShiiKXV2SkjdB1dkUVieIgb7YQpxw/s320/349883289_c7b1b16c63.jpg" /></a></div><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">'Eating aioli should be an emotional experience, it is strong but that is it's role in life', Fergus Henderson Nose To Tail Eating.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">There are many different takes on how aioli should be, what strength, made with egg yolks or not, for me, like Fergus it must be strong and an egg yolk really helps to hold the sauce together. Purists would disagree about the use of an egg yolk. That said aioli is not a garlic mayonnaise, it is aioli and that is why it must be strong, to distinguish itself.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Aioli is a wonderful compliment to virtually everything, fish, fowl, meat, vegetables, the list is endless. A condiment that adds quality and substance and indeed verve to meals, it has amazingly uplifting qualities, it has punch and fight. It's not for the feint hearted. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I like to use a good quality extra virgin olive oil in the preparation, I enjoy the bitterness it offers the final taste. After many years of making it, below is what I feel, through trial and error, a winning recipe.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">A good tub of strong<b> aioli</b>, enough for a barbecue party with friends. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">A bottle of <b>extra virgin olive oil,</b> you will make up your own mind when to stop pouring. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">10-12 cloves of <b>garlic</b> peeled</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Maldon Salt</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Egg yolk</b> at room temperature</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Touch of <b>Dijon Mustard</b>(also room temperature)</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Good squeeze of a <b>lemon</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Pepper</b>, white better for appearance.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Start by laying your garlic gloves on a board, or in a pestle and mortar, sprinkle with Maldon salt and crush. Have a good go at this, work the pungent little magnolia crescent moons into submission! I like to then pass this pounded garlic through an appropriate sieve with a wooden spoon, this will take a fair bit of effort but is emphatically worth it, the result will be an excellent puree. Place this puree in a mixing bowl and add the egg yolk, touch of mustard and mix with a whisk. Now for the slightly tricky bit. Add at first a small stream of oil and thoroughly whisk making sure it is emulsified, and then repeat with another smallish stream. Once you are sure these first pours of oil are well emulsified you can up the ante. Steadily pouring the oil in and whisking. In the case of seperation of the mixture you can add another egg yolk, this should help emulsify again. When you are happy with the consistency and quantity of your aioli it is done. Add some lemon juice(very important adds great balance to the strong garlic) and pepper and check taste. It should have enough salt from the innitial stage. I like it quite thick but still with some fluidity. You can always add some water to loosen a bit if required.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">So now my favorite summer barbecue lunch that requires aioli, sunshine and chilled beaujolais for a perfect afternoon;</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Quail, pork, chorizo, quinoa and aioli</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Quail</b>, enough for a half a bird each at least(marinaded in oil, lemon, garlic, salt and pepper)I like to run a knife down their back bone and remove the breast with leg, less fiddly to eat. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Chorizo's</b>, the cooking type from Brindisa, enough for a couple of sections each.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Pork Loin</b> (rolled and boned) sliced into little steaks, marinaded with the quail.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Quinoa</b>, about half a box, washed thoroughly, then a good covering of salted water added, bought to boil and simmered for about 15 mins. The water should cook out, allow to cool.(Make sure it's dried out, you don't want soggy quinoa).</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Parsley, anchovy, capers, mint</b> all chopped together.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">A polite but small gesture of very thinly sliced <b>shallot.</b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Then all you need is a hot barbecue. None of the elements need a lot of cooking, the chorizo the longest so start there. Be careful not to overcook the pork particularly. The quail have decent fat content so do not dry our easily, three or four minutes a side will do it with a nice rest off the direct heat.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Mix the chopped herbs, anchovy, capers and shallot through the cooked, dried out quinoa, season with some pepper, it's probably salty enough but adjust if necessary. Maybe dress with some oil and a tad of lemon juice.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Give everyone half a quail, some hearty sections of the cooked chorizo and a slice of the pork loin, accompanied by the herby quinoa. A rocket salad would not go amiss. Put the tub of aioli on the table and let your guests delve in.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Almost an ode to Summer.</span><br />
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</span>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-80151048844670495052010-03-25T14:56:00.000-07:002010-03-25T14:56:04.679-07:00Post number five, 'The Ledbury'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Something tells me Notting Hill is no longer the bastion of cutting edge urban coolness that it used to be. It seems to be a much more established area, more grown up and serious than before, or is that just me? </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I remember my visits to W11 years back and it all seemed a bit edgier, '192' on Kensington Park Road, those late bars and tricky named restaurants on All Saints road, mad, but good memories. In any case it is hard to ignore the significant shift towards the east of our great city in terms of new and 'happening' restaurants, bars, clubs and more. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Still whatever Notting Hill is in 2010 there is no doubting it is still a major force of an area. There are more high level boutiques than ever before and it has some serious restaurants too<b>. L<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">ast Saturday I visited '</span>The Ledbury<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">' for the first time and unfortunately I left rather unimpressed;</span></b></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">We were greeted very nicely by what seemed like a red carpet of waiters and waitresses all nodding and extolling pleasantries at us. The rooms exudes class and quality and it all looked the part, first impressions were very good. The menu looked interesting and my decision was made pretty quickly;</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Ravioli with hens egg (they do love eggs these boys) potato puree and white truffle shavings to start was, I would say, just OK. The egg was perfect as was the Ravioli but the potato puree was rather bland which effected the enjoyment of the dish. The truffle shavings a wee bit light on quantity too.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">For main course the popular choice was the pressed suckling pig which came with salsify, nuggets of confit belly, a carrot puree and a tad of over salted mushroom (at least I think that's what it was). Fundamentally it was all a bit too one dimensional. The centre piece of pressed pork was excellent, crispy and succulent but it lacked support and ideed balance around it, the puree was not cleverly flavoured, the dish was just too dry. Ham was mentioned on the menu as part of the dish, unless it was in incredible disguise there was no sign of it on the plate.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">For dessert we all chose some cheese, the chariot was grand. Mini loaves of bread were then delivered, too much bread by far. The small offering of biscuits/crackers were poor.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Ironically the most memorable parts of the meal were the 'Amuse Bouches'. Lovely little Foie Gras laden beetroot macaroons to start, a brilliant pot of Tuna, fishy tomtoey eggs and creme fraiche after our first course, then finally after the cheese, a delicious baby beaker of Panacotta with berry coulis.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The wine we selected of their excellent list was a Meursault, unfortunately the first bottle was too warm. The wine waiter explained, after we queried it's temperature, that they had a problem with their fridges, one would have expected to have been advised of that as we ordered, or as it was poured.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Service was generally not up to scratch, we had to wait too long for our plates to be cleared after our main course and despite the nice lady making a big point at the beginning of the meal, about anyone in our party having allergys, they proceeded to deliver my nut allergenic friend nutty bread and walnuts all over his cheese. A break down in their system there. To be fair this was deducted from the bill and profuse apologies were offered.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">That bill was one hundred and forty pounds a head. The Ledbury experience was significantly let down by the main course and elements of the service. I have had some great meals at other two michelin star establishments in London, namely Gavroche and Hibiscus and this particular night did not compare well. In fact it didn't measure up well against some lunches or dinners I have had at one star London establishments. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The Ledbury clearly can be an excellent restaurant, I have only read good things. M</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">aybe it was a very uncommon off night, it can happen, but I tend to feel you generally only get one chance to seduce a diner at this very high, demanding level. Sadly, I suspect that chance has gone with the four people in our party on saturday. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Two point five out of five stars</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The Ledbury</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">127 Ledbury Road</span><br />
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</span>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-10121649414772596412010-03-06T04:02:00.000-08:002010-03-06T04:02:03.371-08:00Post number four, 'The Canton Arms'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Stockwell is a funny old place. I lived there in the mid nineties when I first left the safety of East Sheen, it proved a post code too far and have been heading back west ever since.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Over the years there has been little reason to return in terms of food and drink establishments apart from the draw of that brilliant little east african/indian jewell 'Hotstuff'. I have taken refuge there many times after well watered days at the Oval.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Anyway there is now another reason to return to SW8, The Canton Arms. It is a grand old lady of a 'boozer' situated on a corner site of South Lambeth Road. Broadly speaking it's heart belongs to that wonderful Great Queen Street, Anchor and Hope 'sect' but its is definitely more of a boozer than the latter. The night I was there there were was interesting music seeping through the speakers and a television was on showing football.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">There are familiar A&H, GQSt facets to the place, the 'blood clot' walls, parts of the menu, but there are subtle differences and movements forward notably the bar snacks(happily 'sans' scotch eggs) dominated by Toasties'. We tried both the Haggis and the pace setting Foie Gras toastie, the Haggis with brown sauce having the edge for me, totally delicious and fairly priced at three pounds. 'Toasties' are a truly great bar snack offering, never has the thought of purchasing a Breville crossed my mind, until now.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">For our main meal we moved through to the dining area at the back of the pub. It really is a grand space, I can see why the owners chose the site, it is a slightly off beat location but this is more than compensated for by the ornate, original interior.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The menu is compact at the moment and I guess in time this will grow. No matter there are plenty of attractions; Leeks Gribiche, Bayonne Ham and Mussels to start were all heartily devoured, the perfectly room temperature leeks with very fresh egg and tarragon herbed sauce the pick. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Main courses of cassoulet, rabbit stew and slow roasted belly pork with fennel and green sauce arrived looking the part. My rabbit stew was excellent, spanish in style and nicely piquant with the chorizo and peppers, ably supported with swollen pillows of joy(butterbeans). I tried the cassoulet, it was slightly lacking moisture but tasted perfect. The pork belly was perhaps missing crispier skin but according to its owner it tasted delicious. It's early days for the place.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Desserts eaten by my fellow diners were chocolate pots, for myself Creme Fraiche Tart with stewed rhubarb which was brilliant. The soft creamy sweetness of the tart with the gentle gnaar of the rhubarb worked so well, and looked so pretty.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I didn't really study the wine offering, everyone kept to pints of Ale of which there are four relatively obscure brews to choose from.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The bill, incorporating lots of pints, toasties, starters, main courses and desserts was about forty pounds a head including service. Not bad at all. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Due to it's location The Canton Arms will be allowed to grow organically. I can see it drawing punters from miles around in the evenings and at weekends, maybe midweek lunchtimes will be more challenging due to the location. That said the 'Toastie' tip will certainly help draw in some casual drinking and eating throughout the day.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I found the place thoroughly charming. It is clearly a movement on from it's contemporaries in the respect that it is trying to remain a proper pub, genuinely mixing drinkers with eaters. Because of the space they have and the clever people behind it I have no doubt it will be a roaring success.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Four, no sod it, five out of five stars.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-25441363937804468992010-02-28T05:52:00.000-08:002010-02-28T05:52:55.459-08:00Post number three, 'White (Haricot) Beans'<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I simply adore white beans, in fact I almost have an fascination with them. I am not quite sure how this manifested itself in me, maybe because from childhood we get introduced and grow to love them as a 'tomatoey' sweet pulse of joy then, in my case at least, they return some years later in a 'grown up' fashion. Like reacquainting oneself with an old friend.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">They are flexible as an ingredient, so pleasing to have in the store cupboard dried waiting for a soaking, or once this is done and a batch is cooked, swimming happily in their own liquor in the fridge. A knowing and nourishing accompaniment to many foods,fish or foul,meat,game,they have great gastronomic friends. In winter they can help create stews, in summer add substance and texture to salads. White beans have integrity.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I can recount with ease great meals I have had where white beans have played a big part in the magic; a cassoulet at The Anchor and Hope a few years back on a bleak winters day, Bentleys in an intense fishy creamy broth with Smoked haddock, St John with Rabbit and aioli, at a Karl Goward(ex St John now @DrapersArms)outpost in Suffolk braised with octopus and served with pork belly.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The basic dried white bean preparation I use is to soak them for three hours or so(over night soaking is not required unless they are very old), then simmer in unsalted water for twenty minutes or so, rinse then cover with fresh water, throw a couple of heads of garlic in with two bay leafs. Put lid on the pan and into a slow to medium oven for about one and a half hours, until the beans are still intact but tender. They can then be seasoned put into a container,cooled and refridgerated for a good week or two.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">They have so much flavour already at this stage, just some good olive oil is a perfect marriage. I frequently eat them with good quality tinned tuna, maybe capers, thinly sliced shallot, lemon juice and parsley added. Delicious.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">One of my favorite's dishes to prepare from this stage is white bean, tomato and chorizo stew; sweat down(slowly) some shallots, onions, fennel and garlic. Throw in some booze if any is kicking around, cook it out, put your beans in with two squished tinned tomatoes(a decent pouring of passata works well if in stock), some tomato puree and cover with chicken stock. Throw in a handful of small whole cooking chorizo's, and cook for around 30 minutes slowly thickening. Remove the chorizo's and slice then return them to the pan, check seasoning and add some chopped parsley to finish. It's great on its own or to serve with pork, chicken or fish. Squid, chilli and preserved lemon can be added to this too(at the beginning)to make a more piquant, 'racey' version.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">To sign off I leave you with a stunningly simple white bean and meat dish that always impresses those that eat it. It only requires bread, sharply dressed green salad and much red wine for a great winters evening with friends;</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b>Jane Grigson White Bean and Meat stew</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><b><br />
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</b></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">A good couple of handfuls of either lamb(ideal), beef or pork, cut into chunks</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">A packet of dried white haricot beans(soaked, boiled for 15 minutes drained and rinsed)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">A good two or three tablespoons of gound Allspice</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Two cloves of garlic chopped</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">A large onion chopped</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Splash of oil</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Salt and pepper</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Tinned tomatoes and Tomato puree</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Chop the onion and throw into a heavy bottomed casserole dish, sweat slowly for ten to fifteen minutes adding the garlic after about ten minutes. Add the meat chunks and brown. Deglaze with touch of wine if you have it to hand if not water will suffice, then add the beans. Squish the tomatoes in and add a good squirt of puree. Cover well with cold water mix and season with the allspice and pepper. Pop into a slow-medium oven for about one and a half hours. About fifteen minutes before time check for taste and season with salt and add some more Allspice and pepper if required. The beans thicken the liquor, the taste from such simple and inexpensive ingredients is superb.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">You can finish with chopped parsley if you like.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-27750009614536352602010-02-17T05:48:00.000-08:002010-02-17T05:48:38.726-08:00Post number two, 'The Harwood Arms '<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjzhf-LhUKtIB1CUlEbK55NEckPoYOkisozhF-7mm1HqZeiBphR1Z8OdeDzqnBI147PSiQ9pchR4rld4ncAvm_uVWoi9YCBEaQYccQlPAUQWwLPfvKqB90gh_J1PecCYv9UydLz0ziBgp/s1600-h/760534169_897c4ecd8f.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438777880561744658" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjzhf-LhUKtIB1CUlEbK55NEckPoYOkisozhF-7mm1HqZeiBphR1Z8OdeDzqnBI147PSiQ9pchR4rld4ncAvm_uVWoi9YCBEaQYccQlPAUQWwLPfvKqB90gh_J1PecCYv9UydLz0ziBgp/s320/760534169_897c4ecd8f.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 195px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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</div><div>Last Saturday I had lunch at the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Harwood</span> Arms, not a debut for me but the first time since its award of a Michelin Star. It has a great pedigree being related to The Square and The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Ledbury</span>. It is in an interesting location, minutes from the '<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">hussle</span> and bolshy <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">bussel</span>' of North End road but at the end of a very fine street of Victorian Villas. The pub and what it now offers suits this street very much. I would in fact like to live in this street.</div><div><br />
</div><div>The room is attractive and bright, elegantly and softly decorated with black and white photography and pretty flower arrangements. </div><div><br />
</div><div>The menu is 'English country side meets fine dining' , intriguing. Lots of game, Venison 't' bones , Pheasant thighs. There is a fantastic Bar snack menu which is very hard to ignore, particularly their famous Scotch eggs. The wine list is not extensive in range but very detailed in explanation, I like that and it truly helps when ordering. </div><div><br />
</div><div>To start proceedings we ordered scotch eggs, freshly fried and served with a pleasing <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">snowcap</span> of sea salt. Cut into, the egg was delightfully fresh and fluid, surrounded by an adequate casing of seasoned minced venison. A great way to kick off the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Harwood</span> food experience particularly with the pint of perfectly kept <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">Wandle</span> ale I was drinking at the time. </div><div><br />
</div><div>Next Snails; beautifully presented in an egg cup format, stuffed with a touch of oxtail, parsley crumbs and to close it off a slice of bone marrow. I am not sure what these additions add in the overall experience of eating snails, maybe I am just too keen on eating them simply with 'snail butter' , but the challenge to oneself to extract all that lies deep in the shell with the little fork is fun and rewarding, if you succeed.</div><div><br />
</div><div>My main course , Cullen <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Skink</span>. A deep grooved handsome looking bowl arrived on their trademark olive tree wood boards, nestling next to it a charred rosemary bread bun for dipping. Brilliantly fresh, bulbous, amber mussels gleefully supported the chunks of succulent smoked fish and potato, with vibrant green Kale as a garnish, all carefully plated in a intense broth, superb. </div><div><br />
</div><div>Other main courses eaten on our table were ox cheek, mashed potato ('Michelin mash', totally creamy, rich and buttery) and pickled walnut, the latter giving a lovely sweet sharp edge to the rich and unctuous melting cheek. Also Venison T bone, it looked a mighty specimen, cooked perfectly pink.</div><div><br />
</div><div>A New Zealand Peregrine <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Pinot</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">Noir</span> proved to be a splendid wine for the lunch, it required some cheese to see it off so I gratefully obliged and ordered the cheese plate, three or four cheeses nicely at one with the room temperature and individually good arrived. </div><div><br />
</div><div>It was felt by common consensus that we couldn't leave without a bowl of miniature marmalade doughnuts and cream, a delicious and clever sharing sweet to sign off. </div><div><br />
</div><div>As a mean over my three visits fifty or sixty pounds a head sees you right going through the card with good wine. Correct money for the quality of food and service(not the sharpest but it is a pub and charming attitudes more than compensated for delays) returned. </div><div><br />
</div><div>The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">Harwood</span> Arms is really very good indeed. Uniquely so, in London that is, it offers a 'fine dining experience' in the surrounds of a Public House. The '<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Gastro</span> pub' bar is raised but to the Anchor and Hope- you are just fine.</div><div><br />
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</div><div>Four out of five stars </div><div><br />
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</div><div>The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">Harwood</span> Arms</div><div>27 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">Walham</span> Grove </div><div>SW6 1UR</div><div><br />
</div><div>0207 386 1847</div><div><br />
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</div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5630264189321600174.post-7081274977124614242010-02-04T13:47:00.000-08:002010-02-17T09:45:24.447-08:00Post number one, 'A background'<div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">My real love of food was born when I started travelling with my job in Europe, particularly the south of France, north east Spain and Italy. What impressed me so was the way people took the subject of food so seriously, not just those in the fantastic restaurants I started to eat at, but everyone I met. I am in the fashion business but food was always so high on the agenda with the people I was visiting. Botafumeiro in Barcelona, La Petite Maison and Le Merenda in Nice, Coco Lezzone in Florence. I was frequently taken to these establishments and they all excited and inspired me. The simplicity, purity and quality of the food was magnificent.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I was of course subsequently duty bound to reciprocate lunches and dinners when I welcomed visitors in London and this drove me forward to research what London had to offer, what was new, what was hot. Time out became an essential weekly purchase and I started venturing out, trying and tasting. One of my spanish colleagues back then was particularly demanding when he came to London, each time he visited he craved new and cool, food and fun.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">It was on a particular night with this amigo that the first defining moment in my food life occured, a dinner at St John on a winters eve in 1994. I remember we ate Middlewhite and swede, glorious milky white and yellow comfort on a plate, Pigeon and lentils, proper welsh rarebit. The room and it's stark coolness, the simplicity but beauty of the food, the pig on the ashtrays, the menu printed with those immortal words 'Nose to tail eating', the coat pegs, I was inspired and hooked. Regular visits ensued.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Some years later I purchased 'Nose to tail eating' by Fergus Henderson and a happy obsession began. It was not just the fantastically novel, non whimsical preparations in the book but the imaginative and captivating way in which they are described to the reader. Not to mention the innovative and superb photography.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">The second defining moment in my food life to date was when my old mate @legbye donated me 'Roast chicken and other stories ' by Simon Hopkinson. Hopkinson's love for what he was writing about jumped out at me and I found it totally inspiring. I could at last roast a chicken brilliantly, I never looked back. I was intrigued by the 'fanfares' in the book, where he wonders away from the food/recipe narrative and champions certain people and what they meant to him; this is when Elizabeth David, Alice Waters and Richard Olney came into my life.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">Since then I have read and referred back to Nose to tail eating, Roast Chicken and other stories, Simple French cooking by Richard Olney and various Liz David books time and time again. This set of books have become my bibles for the food I love to cook and eat. I try to stay within their confines not least so I have a certain 'way' in the kitchen I am used to and can therefore perform quite well at. Bits and bobs of innovation in terms of ingredients and preparation barge they way in every now and then but generally I like to practise and eat simple, seasonal cooking with the emphasis on quality ingredients. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">I have continued to be interested in and visit new restaurants and pubs as well as frequenting the stalwarts I love; I have watched with great interest the influence Fergus Henderson has had on food in London in the last 15 years, his disciples leaving and opening their own establishments, also the growing trend for bistro style food that I also love so much. I do enjoy the occasional foray into the world of fine dining too. </span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;"><br />
</span> </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Courier New', Courier, monospace;">On this blog I will share(with those kind enough to read it) my new restaurant experiences in the UK and overseas. I will also share anything interesting that pops up from my messing around in the kitchen at home and random tit bits relating to real ales and fine wines. I rather enjoy a good pint of bitter as well as a fine bottle of wine.</span></div>Chris Rosamhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08703690592988034809noreply@blogger.com2