Post number four, 'The Canton Arms'

Stockwell is a funny old place. I lived there in the mid nineties when I first left the safety of East Sheen, it proved a post code too far and have been heading back west ever since.

Over the years there has been little reason to return in terms of food and drink establishments apart from the draw of that brilliant little east african/indian jewell 'Hotstuff'. I have taken refuge there many times after well watered days at the Oval.

Anyway there is now another reason to return to SW8, The Canton Arms. It is a grand old lady of a 'boozer' situated on a corner site of South Lambeth Road. Broadly speaking it's heart belongs to that wonderful Great Queen Street, Anchor and Hope 'sect' but its is definitely more of a boozer than the latter. The night I was there there were was interesting music seeping through the speakers and a television was on showing football.

There are familiar A&H, GQSt facets to the place, the 'blood clot' walls, parts of the menu, but there are subtle differences and movements forward notably the bar snacks(happily 'sans' scotch eggs) dominated by Toasties'. We tried both the Haggis and the pace setting Foie Gras toastie, the Haggis with brown sauce having the edge for me, totally delicious and fairly priced at three pounds. 'Toasties' are a truly great bar snack offering, never has the thought of purchasing a Breville crossed my mind, until now.

For our main meal we moved through to the dining area at the back of the pub. It really is a grand space, I can see why the owners chose the site, it is a slightly off beat location but this is more than compensated for by the ornate, original interior.

The menu is compact at the moment and I guess in time this will grow. No matter there are plenty of attractions; Leeks Gribiche, Bayonne Ham and Mussels to start were all heartily devoured, the perfectly room temperature leeks with very fresh egg and tarragon herbed sauce the pick. 

Main courses of cassoulet, rabbit stew and slow roasted belly pork with fennel and green sauce arrived looking the part. My rabbit stew was excellent, spanish in style and nicely piquant with the chorizo and peppers, ably supported with swollen pillows of joy(butterbeans). I tried the cassoulet, it was slightly lacking moisture but tasted perfect. The pork belly was perhaps missing crispier skin but according to its owner it tasted delicious. It's early days for the place.

Desserts eaten by my fellow diners were chocolate pots, for myself Creme Fraiche Tart with stewed rhubarb which was brilliant. The soft creamy sweetness of the tart with the gentle gnaar of the rhubarb worked so well, and looked so pretty.

I didn't really study the wine offering, everyone kept to pints of Ale of which there are four relatively obscure brews to choose from.

The bill, incorporating lots of pints, toasties, starters, main courses and desserts was about forty pounds a head including service. Not bad at all. 

Due to it's location The Canton Arms will be allowed to grow organically. I can see it drawing punters from miles around in the evenings and at weekends, maybe midweek lunchtimes will be more challenging due to the location. That said the 'Toastie' tip will certainly help draw in some casual drinking and eating throughout the day.

I found the place thoroughly charming. It is clearly a movement on from it's contemporaries in the respect that it is trying to remain a proper pub, genuinely mixing drinkers with eaters. Because of the space they have and the clever people behind it I have no doubt it will be a roaring success.

Four, no sod it, five out of five stars.